A short history of Stow
Stow is a town alive with history whose beginnings can be traced back to an Iron Age fort and even beyond through archaeological treasures such as Neolithic flint axes and arrow heads.
The wool trade allowed the town to prosper and in 1107, King Henry I issued a market charter for a weekly market to take place. At one end of the market square stands a medieval market cross whose base dates from the 15th century. Symbolically this cross stood to remind traders through the years to trade honestly. Across the square still stand a set of medieval stocks where miscreants and rogue traders were punished.
The narrow passages around the market square, now known for their interesting shops, were used to count sheep into the market place.
Stow played a significant role in the English Civil War. The Battle of Stow in 1646 was fought across nearby fields and spilled into the market place itself where battle damage can be seen to this day. The battle marked the effective defeat of the Royalists followed by the surrender of King Charles I and the end of the war. Sir Jacob Astley, commander of the Royalist army, is said to have sat down and surrendered at a spot close to the base of the market cross.
In the middle of the market place stands St. Edward’s Hall. It was built in 1878, rather charmingly from unclaimed money in the town’s bank, to provide the residents of the town with a meeting place; a purpose it still fulfils with Pilates classes and craft fairs.
St Edward’s Church, built between the 11th and 15th centuries on the site of a Saxon church, is worth a visit to view its other-worldly north door. With two ancient yew trees standing sentry, it is thought to have inspired J. R. R. Tolkien.
The best way to take in all this history is to follow the town trail which is available from the visitor information centre in St. Edward’s Hall.
Art, antiques and a wealth of independents: Where to shop
Sheep have made way for shops in the narrow passages around the market square which now provide a warren of charming buildings, shops and cafes for visitors to explore.
Through these lanes and across the square, art and antiques are on the style sets’ Stow shopping list whether for investment or inspiration. Christopher Clarke Antiques is a rare dealer in military campaign furniture and travel-related items often loaning its pieces to film and TV sets. For a more eclectic collection, Tara Antiques Centre showcases 30 dealers over three floors. The gallery and studio of award-winning photojournalist Peter Martin houses a stunning collection, while Fosse Gallery Fine Art is a fine showcase of contemporary artists.
Specialist shops such as Cotswold Art Supplies, The Cotswold Cheese Company and Borzoi Bookshopare the antidote to faceless high street chains and a joy to peruse.
Refuel and recharge: Where to eat and drink
Grab a coffee from Stow Town Coffee, an artisan micro-roastery (‘one of the smallest commercial coffee roasteries in the UK’), to sip while you stroll.
Fuel up with a delicious brunch or freshly baked scones at The Hive or pop into Sheep on Sheep Streetwhose pleasingly quaint exterior gives way to a contemporary bar and restaurant.
Laying claim to being ‘England’s Oldest Inn’, The Porch House was built in 947AD. That’s a lot of pints. Complete with cosy nooks and roaring fires it’s just the image of a pub you want on a Cotswold visit. The first customers back in 947 would have their minds blown by the negronis and cauliflower wings now on the menu but would probably feel right at home ordering the lamb shank and a pint of Brakspear ale.
For a really special dinner (as featured in the Michelin Guide) book a table at The Old Butchers for the best seafood or steak or souffle. Its ever-changing menu concentrates on the freshest ingredients and minimal waste.
Days out and dates for the diary
Big Feastival, a food and music extravaganza hosted on the farm of Blur’s Alex James takes place every August not far from Stow.
For a slightly more intimate experience, the Guiting Power Music Festival has been bringing world-class classical, jazz and blues music to the Cotswolds for over 50 years.
Twice a year, Stow hosts the Stow Horse Fair – a traditional Romany gathering where horses are paraded, bought and sold in a practice largely unchanged for decades.
Heading out of Stow, the Cotswold Farm Park makes for a nearby fun day out for young and old. TV’s Adam Henson’s farm lets you get close to the action as the farm works through the seasons.
Whatever the season, whether you visit as the sun’s golden glow bathes honeyed Cotswold stone or in time to get cosy with a drink by a roaring fire as autumn’s colours give way to winter’s bite, Stow-on-the-Wold is a Cotswold town straight out of central casting.
